Try your hand at contemporary Italian cuisine

By Metro Creative

Italian cuisine is beloved across the globe. Flavorful and filling, Italian cuisine is also versatile, as different regions of the country produce very different dishes featuring meat, poultry, fish and, of course, pasta. For those who want to try their hand at Italian cuisine from the comforts of home, the following recipe for “Tortellini di Coda di Bue (Oxtail Tortellini)” from Michael White and Joanna Pruess’ “Fiamma: The Essence of Contemporary Italian Cooking” (Wiley) is a great place to start.

Tortellini di Coda di Bue (Oxtail Tortellini)

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds oxtail pieces or short ribs, well trimmed and patted dry with paper towels

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup canola or vegetable oil

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 small carrot, peeled and chopped

1 small rib celery, trimmed and chopped

1 14.5 ounce can peeled crushed tomatoes, preferably from the San Marzano region

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

2 cups hearty red wine, such as Sangiovese or Barbera

2 cups canned low-sodium stock

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus cheese for sprinkling

1 large egg, beaten

1 pound store-bought pasta sheets

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 fresh sage leaves

Season the meat liberally with salt and pepper. In a large deep pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over high heat until almost smoking. Add the oxtails in a single layer, always keeping the oil hot enough to sizzle as the pieces are added. Brown on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes, turning to color evenly. Remove the pieces with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander. Do this in batches, if necessary, so the pieces are not crowded.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 F.

Discard all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot. Stir in the onion, carrot and celery and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until lightly colored, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf, stirring to incorporate all the browned bits in the pot, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer. Pour in the red wine, bring to a boil, and cook for 20 minutes or until the liquid has reduced by half. Then stir in the stock.

Return the meat to the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the meat is completely tender when pierced with a fork. With a slotted spoon, lift the pieces from the sauce and put them on a sheet pan to cool.

Using a slotted spoon, remove about ½ cup of the vegetables and tomatoes from the pan and set aside. Pour the remaining sauce through a fine strainer into a clean pan, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible. The sauce should be thick and rich.

Pick the meat off the bones, chop into small pieces, and put in a large bowl. Combine the meat with the cheese, add the egg, season with salt and pepper, and stir to blend.

Puree the reserved vegetables in a food processor and stir them into the meat mixture. Set aside. If making the sauce ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

On a lightly floured work surface, use a sharp knife or pizza cutter and ruler to trim the sheets of pasta into 6- x 18-inch rectangles. Cut each rectangle into twelve 3-inch squares. As you work with one sheet, cover the remaining pasta with a clean cloth or plastic. In the end, you should have 54 three-inch squares. Line a baking sheet with parchment and dust lightly with cornmeal or flour.

Spoon about 1/2 teaspoon of filling in the center of each square. Mist the pasta lightly with water, cover with another pasta square, and press the pasta with your fingertips to seal the filling inside, making sure to press out all of the air. Trim the edges with a zigzag pasta wheel. Transfer to the baking sheet and set aside in a cool, dry spot. Once the tortellini are filled, they may be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Or put them into large resealable plastic bags, squeeze out the excess air, and freeze immediately for up to 2 weeks.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the tortellini. After they rise to the surface, cook for 1 minute longer, then remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large bowl. Drain any water that accumulates at the bottom of the bowl.

Heat the butter in a large pot. Add the sage, cook for 1 minute, then add the tortellini to the pan and toss to coat. Divide the tortellini evenly among 8 large plates, drizzle with the sauce, sprinkle with additional cheese, and serve.